Lecture one-Film, Fashion and Consumption summary

Hollywood had a pivotal role in shaping consumerism. Gave the idea of democratic consumption, as film narratives commonly involved actors the viewer could identify with. Viewers were given a flavour of fashion. The democratic fashion idea was picked up by magazines in the '20s and '30s. Schiaparelli was quoted: “what hollywood shows today, you will wear tomorrow.”

There was visual grandeur in silent films, as it was necessary to express the plot, but this aesthetic was carried through even when sound was used.

In the 19^th C makeup was only worn by actresses and prostitutes. Eyes were outlined to emphasise communication of expression. Max Factor went to Hollywood. Had the idea to sell cosmetics to the general public. People wanted to emulate what they saw on screen.

In the aftermath of the war it was normal for women to go to work.During the depression in the '30s, there was jobs for women but not men. Thus women were now targeted as consumers.

Mass production of garments made it possible to make copies of hollywood dress. Synthetic fabrics made it possible to make them cheap, for example rayon to emulate silk. Consumer capitalism relies on planned obsolescence. Runway shows were for trade, not the public.

There was a tension of dominance Paris Versus Hollywood.

Film costume is supposed to tell you about character, not to sell clothes.

Sex and the City the series is an example that does not adhere to this rule. Carrie was in emotional crisis, but her clothes were distracting from the dialogue.

Ginger Rogers Top Hat. Fur= the glamour of classic Hollywood.

Everybody used to know how to sew, so film copies were expressed in patterns as well as garments. Dinner at Eight. Jean Harlow. Her + Marilyn, and Brigitte Bardot were not natural blondes. Before this, only prostitutes dyed their hair.

Joan Crawford + Chanel popularised the suntanned look.

Hair- Marilyn had an Italian demi wave. It was then the most popular haircut in the ‘50s. red lipstick. Arched eyebrows.

Profitability. Will Hays was quoted “every foot of American film sells $1 worth of manufactured products someplace in the world.”

Transformation by fashionable dress is a staple story of Hollywood. Message that it can change your life. Examples include The Devil wears Prada and Pretty woman.

People used to go to the Cinema 2 or 3 times/ week.

Responsible for the obsession with body shape. 20s slim, 30s curvy. Plastic surgery began to be researched in the ‘50s.

Tie- in = connecting start of film with merchandising. Queen Christina with Greta Garbo. Swedish flatwear.

In 1933 general electric and general motors secured product placement deals.

Spin off. Accidently creates trends. E.g Uma Thurman pulp fiction. nail polish. Marlon Brando James dean. Workwear white tees. Top Gun. Ray bans flying jacket. It happened one night. Clark Gable. Men stopped wearing singlets by 75%.

Bias cuts. Vionnet designed it. But Hollywood made everybody want it.

Edith Head. The only female costume designer of her time. The Sting. Jungle Princess 1936. Liz Taylor, A place in the sun.

Dior New Look 1947. Said to be inspired by Gone with the Wind. Tiny waisted dresses. Romantic. Chanel’s gypsy collection.

New look would not have been so popular on high street if film directors had not portrayed it. Grace Kelly Rear Window. The Birds Edith Head Tippi Hedren Used the tight New look style.

Contemporary Synergy between film, fashion and consumption: Oscars. Film stars sit front row at catwalk shows. Filmmakers began by making commercials. Now leading filmmakers make commercials. Gucci. Lady Dior. Full of references to other films and fashion photography. The more you know about old films the more likely you are to understand fashion films.

Domestic Bliss W magazine. Brangelina. Based on film stills. Italian films of the ‘60s. Desperate housewives.

Digital fashion films. ShowStudio. Nick Knight. Actually photographers not filmmakers. Different languages. Gareth Pugh. Very influenced by Avant Garde cinema.

Laura Mulvey. Women’s sexuality. Men look, women are looked at. Women constructed as sexual beings. Femme Fetale. Marilyn was sexual yet vulnerable. Men usually kept their clothes on. Men tend to be portrayed as smart.

Hay's Code- Mae West help encourage it by her brash behaviour. She was crude. The code was an enormous document, very detailed. The Pelican Brief. No inter-ethnicity sexual relationships. Cigarette smoking linked to sexuality. 1930s Hollywood communist witch hunts. Crazy sci fi films. Attack of the killer tomatoes. Attack of the 50ft woman.